Although it’s proximity with Rio’s historical center, the Santa Teresa neighborhood was occupied in a distinctive way from the city, sheltering African ritual centers and quilombolas among it’s densely vegetation in the middle of the 18th century. The name takes it’s origins from the Santa Teresa Monastery, built in 1750 on a piece of land donated to eh barefoot Carmelite nuns, where previously existed a small church to Nossa Senhora do Desterro (Our Lady of the Relegation) – then known as Morro do Desterro (Relegation Hill). By 1850, fundamentally caused by the many epidemic diseases devastating the city, the region was then used as a refuge. Close to the Guanabara Bay, the location guaranteed fresh air and strategic access to Downtown, as well as to the North and South Zones (through Lapa, Glória, Laranjeiras, Cosme Velho, Catumbi and Rio Comprido).
The occupation initiated by the time brought mansions and small castells that now constitutes the singular architectonic set, preserved contiguous to the paving stone streets and the centenary oil lamps. It was also on the 19th century that the streetcars were inaugurated, initially pulled by donkeys and then replaced by the electric ones. This urbanistic structure is preserved nowadays in conjunction to an artistic and bohemian inclination, at the best “as in former days” styled bars around the public squares like Largo das Neves, which seems frozen in time, the starting point on our 2nd Rolé Carioca through Santa Teresa.
Image: Augusto Malta/BN Digital
The final station of the old streetcar is a square surrounded by old mansions from the 30’s. It was opened in 1852 by the commendatory Francisco Ferreira das Neves, owner of the local country house and responsible for the construction of the chapel in homage to Nossa Senhora das Neves (Our Lady of Neves). On Carnaval it is the passage of the Bloco Céu na Terra and it keeps, during the year, a diverse cultural programs.
Image: Panoramio
The neo-gothic temple started to be erected in 1854 by the order of the country house owner, Francisco Ferreira das Neves, fulfilling the place of an oratory from 1814, in devotion to Our lady of neves, as known as Santa Maria Maior (Saint Mary, The Higher).
Imagem: Panoramio
The Ernani Agrícola Municipal Health Center is a public healthcare unity inaugurated in 1943 as a child care, the function that was given to this kind of facility downtown. As the years went by, the service changed it’s organization under the form of programs, not necessarily attending the epidemiological profile of each administrative region.
Image: Facebook CMS Ernani Agrícola
The Rio de Janeiro’s District Church emerged in 1920 from the Episcopal Mission. The actual temple had it’s construction initiated ein 1924 and was elevated to the status of cathedral in 1985. In 2010, even though the See was removed to Igreja do Redentor (Redeemer’s Church), in Tijuca, it kept the title of Rio’s Ancient Anglican Church and works as a cultural space in Santa Teresa open to community events.
Image: Brian J. McMorrow
Brougth to life in 2003, the cinema sessions used to happen at the neighborhood’s Anglican Church until it were established in one room of the Administrative Region building. The Cine remains as one of the few active street cinemas in the city and it’s maintenance is done thanks to the partnership between educators and cultural producers, expanding this model to Museu da República (Catete) and Cine Cândido Mendes (Ipanema).
Image: Divulgação
Between Almirante Alexandrino and Paschoal Carlos Magno streets, this convenience area had the given name paying homage to Joaquim Fonseca Guimarães, the old owner of the country house that originated Hotel Santa Teresa. On it’s surroundings there are countless bars, coffee shops, restaurants, thrift shops and handcraft stores, giving this spot some popularity. You can also access the Fonseca Guimarães, Triunfo and Filadélfia streets, a micro exemplar of picturesque architecture of the neighborhood.
Image: Tânia Rego/Agência Brasil
The use of streetcars as the main mean of transport in Santa Teresa originated from a slide-way installed in 1877, connecting the Matacavalos street (now Riachuelo street) to Largo dos Guimarães on top of the neighborhood. When arriving at the Largo, the passengers used to take an animal traction trolley that drove them around the district’s inhabited area. In 1898 the steam engine was replaced for an electric machine and began to transit over the Lapa Arch as it remains, a part of the quotidian. As the saying goes: “everything in life is transitory, except the conductor and the motorman”.
The designer, composer and philosopher Rogério Duarte (1939 – 2016) arrived in Rio years before Caetano Veloso, Maria Bethânia and the other baianos, residing in Santa Teresa at least in two occasions. The first was in the 60’s, just before he went to be at the head of Tropicalismo, integrating the rupture performances of Hélio Oiticica and conceiving the famous posters for Glauber Rocha films and the graphic projects of the first albums from Gil and Caetano. Years later the break occourred by his imprisonment and torture by the military, Duarte lived, from 1973 to 1974, in retreat at the Brazilian Buddhist Society (at Alice street) where he converted to a life of solitude and religious studies which would guide him to a new path: the Hare Krishna.
The Orthodox Martir Zenáide Russian Church in Santa Teresa is a little piece of a treasure from the Russian refugees community that came to Brazil after the 1917 Revolution. Arriving in lots, first from Europe in the 20’s and, after, during the post-war, from China and Soviet Union dominated countries, those Russian refugees couldn’t come back to their homeland since they were considered dissidents by the revolutionary government. Edified in 1937, the orthodox temple marked a period of the religious bloom for these immigrants who tried somehow to preserve the cultural traditions of their ancestors.
Set in Santa Teresa during the year 1800, it is the last book from the romantic period of Machado de Assis, from 1878. On the book Jorge and Estela love each other but some difficulties oppose to their union, of which both of them try to escape. The romance goes against Dona Valéria, the lad’s mom who convinces him to volunteer to the Paraguayan War in order to end the relationship. During his absence, Valéria gives Estela a dowry and gets her a husband, the widower Luís Garcia, of a peaceful and domestic temper, who lives only to take care of their daughter: Iaiá Garcia.
A local relic that survived as mean a of transport till the 21st century. You can get it from Largo dos Guimarães or Curvelo and cross Santa Teresa going to Largo da Carioca, downtown, passing by the Lapa Arch. The tariff is R$ 20. The residents (preliminary registered), public schools students and people above 65 years old and Vale Social cares can ride for free.
Operation: from Mondays to Fridays, 8am to 5:45pm and on Saturdays from 10am to 6pm. It doesn’t work on Sundays and holidays.
Image: Tânia Rego/Agência Brasil
An afro centered store using Baobá as reference, the millennial African tree that represents ancestral wisdom. The cloths and accessories are created based on capulanas, a multifunctional textile, printed with African patterns traditionally used by many generations as a woman’s expression of that continent.
Paschoal Carlos Magno street, 92
Operating: Mondays to Sunday, from 11am to 8pm.
Image: Facebook Baobá Brasil
Armazém São Thiago, best known as Bar do Gomes, is located for over 90 years in Santa Teresa and has already been a warehouse. It still holds furniture from the early last century and serves appetizers such as beef croquettes, pies, codfish balls and portions of lupins and olives, as well as beer and cachaça.
Address: 26, Áurea st.
Phone: (21) 2232-0822
Operating: Mondays to Saturdays, from 11am to midnight; Sunday, from noon to 10pm.
Image: Facebook Armazém São Thiago
