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Historical City Walk

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CINELÂNDIA|LAPA

Surrounded by the Municipal Theater, Odeon Cinema and the National Library, Cinelândia has its name connected to the arrival of the Companhia Cinematográphica Brasileira at the beginning of 20th century, when, with the encouragement of Francisco Serrador, the construction of the cinemas in Rio took place. Lapa, on the other hand, had a very different image from the one it has today, which attracts tourists and local people as well. The place was surrounded by ponds, and what is now known as Arcos da Lapa was built to be the Carioca’s aqueduct. The largest enterprise of Colonial times in Brazil, it came to be used as a way for the trams as soon as the piped water system of the city was created. Cinelândia and Lapa of the 21st century live a new cultural phenomenon: the pursuit of “chorinho”, of root samba and the reopening of the biggest stage for rock n’ roll in Rio de Janeiro (Circo Voador) besides reforms of iconic buildings like the Municipal Theater and the National Library. All these new cultural proposals enlightened the area, designing a new city by joining the past and the future.

1 THEATRO MUNICIPAL

Inaugurated in 1909 as part of the architectural ensemble of the redevelopment works of the city of Rio de Janeiro, The Municipal Theater is a replica of one of the main theaters in Paris, where one can observe Greek columns, Portuguese balconies and other references that mark the eclectic architectural trend. Among the distinguished personalities who have performed there, some stand out, as Maria Callas, Renata Tebaldi, Arturo Toscanini, Sarah Bernhardt, Bidu Sayão, Eliane Coelho, Heitor Villa-Lobos- and Igor Stravinsky

Address: Praça Floriano s/n

website: www.theatromunicipal.rj.gov.br/

Phone: (21) 2332-9191

Image Credits: fotospublicas.com

2 MUSEU NACIONAL DE BELAS ARTES

In 1908, the National School of Fine Arts moved to the building. However, the museum only opened in 1937. Its collection comes from the works brought from Portugal by King Dom João VI, and was expanded with the collection of Joachim Lebreton (who led the so-called French Artistic Mission). Victor Meirelles’ "The First Mass in Brazil" is at the museum along with Pedro Américo’s "The Battle of Avaí".

Address: Av. Rio Branco, 199

Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday, from 10 am to 6pm.
Saturday, Sunday and Holidays, from 12 am to 5 pm.

Webite: www.mnba.gov.br/

Image Credits: Flickr.com / Usuer: Sensata57

3 BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL

The current building of the National Library was inaugurated in 1910, but its foundation took place a century ago, when the Portuguese court moved to Brazil. Its collection is estimated at 10 million items, among them, the first 1572 edition of Luís de Camões’ The Lusíadas and original scores of Carlos Gomes operas.

Address: Av. Rio Branco, 219

Opening Hours: Visit the website for more info.

Website: https://www.bn.br

Image Credits: Halley Pacheco de Oliveira

4 CINE ODEON

It opened in 1926 at the peak of the Cinelândia cinemas. It is the last remaining movie theater of the circuit that helped baptize the region (which included Cineac Trianon, the Parisian, the Empire, the Pathé, the Rex, the Victoria, the Metro and the Palace) and hosts events like Festival do Rio, the International Short Film Festival of Rio de Janeiro and Anima Mundi. After rumors of its closure, leaving moviegoers distressed , it underwent a renovation in 2015, being renamed Luiz Severiano Ribeiro Cultural Center – Cine Odeon.

Address: Praça Floriano 7

Opening Hours: Call for more info.

Phone:(21) 2461-0201

Image Credits: Flickr / User: Petrobras

5 EDIFÍCIO SERRADOR

The building was inaugurated in October 1944 as a hotel, named after the Spanish businessman Francisco Serrador, one of the forerunners of the implementation of cinemas in Brazil, who was the owner of various theaters. When the capital moved to Brasilia and Cinelândia was in decay, it closed its doors in 1970.

Address: Praça Mahatma Gandhi, 14

Image Credits: Rafael Andrade / Folhapress

6 PRAÇA MAHATMA GANDHI

The Square, representing the friendship between Brazil and India, is currently the place where, in 1906, the Monroe Palace was built. It served as headquarters for the Chamber of Deputies and the Senate. It was demolished in 1976, because of the subway works. However, there are rumors that there were real estate interests involved and even the dictatorship might have been interested in demolishing the building.

Address: Praça Mahatma Gandhi, s/n

Image Credits: greenstyle.com.br

7 PASSEIO PÚBLICO

Inspired by the Public Promenade in Lisbon, inaugurated in the 1760s, and in the construction of the Royal Palace gardens of Queluz, Passeio Público is a park located in the neighborhood of Lapa. It was inaugurated in the 18th century, and was the first public park in the Americas.

Address: Rua do Passeio, s/n

Website: www.passeiopublico.com/

Image Credits: Panoramio.com / User: RNLatvian

8 ARCOS DA LAPA

Arcos da Lapa was an aqueduct, opened in 1750 to bring the water pipeline coming from Morro de Santa Teresa to the fountain at the foot of the convent Santo Antônio, in Largo da Carioca. Later, the system was extended through Cano Street (now Sete de Setembro St.), up to Largo do Paço (now Praça 15 de Novembro), where ships came to supply.

Address: Rua Mem de Sá with Rua Riachuelo

Image Credits: portodososlados.wordpress.com

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Rumor has it

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! Complain to the Bishop’s mother!

It is said in the streets that the place which is now called Cinelândia once housed the Convent Nossa Senhora da Ajuda, founded in 1750 (at the corner of Evaristo da Veiga with Treze de Maio St.), and the Seminary São José (where the National Library stands today). At that time, between the years 1731 and 1805, Mrs. Ana Teodoro Ramos de Mascarenhas, the mother of Bishop José Justino Mascarenhas Castelo Branco, lived in a big house that was popularly known as “House of the Bishop’s Mother”. After demolition, it became “Largo of the Bishop’s Mother”. This lady, held the role of judge in various types of disputes and disagreements . Her position as a mother of an important member of the church, together with the fact that she was a judge, gave rise to the popular expression: “complain to the Bishop’s mother”.

! Madame Satã – Rio’s emblematic transgressor

Considered a reference in the urban marginal culture of the 20th century, João Francisco dos Santos Sant'Anna (1900 - 1976), best known as Madame Satã, was a transvestite, seen as an emblematic character of the transgressed nightlife in Rio. Considered a master in “capoeira”, he fought several times against more than one police officer, usually in response to insults that had targeted beggars, prostitutes, transvestites and black people.

! The origins of the name Cinelândia

Francisco Serrador, a Spanish businessman owner of hotels, casinos, theaters and cinemas in several Brazilian cities, mainly Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and Curitiba, was the one who encouraged the construction of the first cinema in Rio, the Chantecler. From there on, the "Brazilian Broadway”, was created.

! Demolished symbol

Erected as Brazilian pavilion at a world's fair in the US and designed by architect Colonel Francisco Marcelino de Souza Aguiar, Monroe Palace was disassembled and reassembled in 1906 at the end of Central Avenue, now Rio Branco Avenue, thanks to its metal frame. Between 1925 and 1960 it hosted the Federal Senate and became a symbol of the Republic in the federal capital. It came down in 1976, having its demolition justified by the construction of the subway, but rumor has it that the then President Ernesto Geisel authorized the overthrow in order to put an end to the award winning design of the father of his rival in the Army.

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Cultural Tips | CINELÂNDIA|LAPA

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RESTAURANTE NOVA CAPELA

Founded in 1923, the restaurant used to be located elsewhere in the Lapa until it settled at its current address, where it has had its headquarters since the late 60s. It has survived the worst days of Lapa and now that the neighborhood is back in fashion, it continues to serve the traditional roasted lamb and wild boar late into the night.

Address: 96, Mem de Sá Ave. - Lapa

Phone: (21) 2252-6228

Image Credits: www.obaoba.com.br
 

LIVRARIA CULTURA

After a revitalization project of the old Cine Victoria, which had been deactivated two decades ago , the bookstore opened in December 2012, preserving the art deco style in which the building was originally designed. The four floors that make up the unit are integrated so as to give the feeling of a great cultural center.

Address: 45, Senador Dantas St. - Centro

Phone: (21) 3916-2600

Website: www.livrariacultura.com.br

Image Credits: www.livrariacultura.com.br

SALA CECÍLIA MEIRELES

The concert hall was inaugurated in 1965 in honor of the poet Cecília Meireles, in a building that once housed Cine Colonial and Grande Hotel da Lapa. The program of the house, which remained closed for four years due to renovations, goes from erudite to popular music and offers many concerts at affordable prices.

Address: 47, Largo da Lapa

Phone: (21) 2332-9223 

Image Credits: Fotos Públicas / Carlos Magno

FEIRA DO LAVRADIO

Also called Feira do Rio Antigo, this street market brings together antiques, crafts, food and music every first Saturday of the month in Lavradio Street, with expansions to Rezende and Senado Streets. It acquires a special atmosphere when storeowners, antique shops, exhibitors and local bars and restaurants spread their tables and chairs outdoors. Cultural attractions, such as small concerts and performances, also give life to the site throughout the day. A good tip is to get there late in the morning and enjoy lunch and the afternoon in the area.

Address: Lavradio St. - Lapa

Website: www.facebook.com/FeiraRioAntigo

Image Credits: Nelson Porto

TEATRO RIVAL

Opened in 1939, it is one of the most important stages in the history of Brazilian music and theater. Currently, it is dedicated to popular music, under the coordination of actresses Angela Leal and Leandra Leal. Grande Otelo, Oscarito, Dulcina, Cauby Peixoto, As Cantoras do Rádio, Vera Holtz, Ary Fontoura, Paul Gracindo, Henriette Mourinou, among many other artists, have passed through its stage. Today, it hosts many concerts, from traditional to more alternative music.

Address: 33/37, Álvaro Alvim St. - Cinelândia

Phone: (21) 2240-4469

Website: www.rivalpetrobras.com.br

Image Credits: www.skyscrapercity.com

Escadaria Selarón

The Selarón staircase is the work of the Chilean artist Jorge Selarón. The staircase goes from Joaquim Silva Street, in Lapa, to the lower reaches of Santa Teresa. Thanks to twenty years of floor and wall tiles sent by admirers from various corners of the world and placed there side by side, resulting in an endless mosaic of color, it has already been featured in many magazines, newspapers, documentaries, TV commercials and clips of national and international artists. Currently, it houses the headquarters of Cias, a cozy space occupied by theater companies that present shows almost every weekend.

Address: Manuel Carneiro St. (at the corner of Joaquim Silva St.)

BAR ARCO ÍRIS

Traditional bar in Lapa, it has resisted the degradation of the neighborhood and has remained at the same address since 1960. Now, it has a branch in the Lavradio Street, with more modern facilities. At both bars, peak hours are before and after nightlife.

Addess: “Old” Arco-Íris – 72, Mem de Sá Ave. | Sinuca Arco-Íris or New Arco-Íris – 202, Lavradio St.

Phone: (21) 2253-8908

Image Credits: toatoadotme.wordpress.com
 

SHOWS NA LAPA

The circuit of concert halls in Lapa grows every year. In addition to the big stages of Circo Voador and Fundição Progresso, places such as Bar Semente, Rio Scenarium and Teatro Odisseia have a varied program of shows on their stages. In Lapa, you can hear anything from samba, choro, pagode, MPB, funk, reggae, pop, indie rock and more.

Image Credits: Sandro Honorato

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