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Historical City Walk

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COPACABANA

Copacabana was invented in the 19th century, more specifically around 1890. The name of those large sandy areas previously called Sacopenapã was defined in the 18th century, with the construction of a small church dedicated to a saint, protector of the Peruvian and Bolivian communities surrounding the Titicaca Lake, called Our Lady of Copacabana.
At that time, ' Copacabana ' was an inhospitable and unexplored corner due to Rio’s topography, since the hills from Urca until Botafogo formed a natural lock, and access was only possible through a depression between the hills. In 1892, a new access was created-Real Grandeza tunnel- (now Túnel velho), enabling a fast occupancy of that neighborhood. The arrival of electric trams and the opening of a new tunnel (Túnel Novo) in 1904, provided conditions for the growth of that area, which is now a dream site ideal for leisure, with the popularization of the sea bath.
Following the construction of the luxurious Copacabana Palace in 1923, the new lift and elevators technology and concrete cement constructions, the landscape was occupied by buildings over eight floors high – a great wall that, decades later, would significantly reduce the air flow in the area, generating a new concept of very small flats and kitchenettes.
Between the fifties and sixties, the bohemia meeting point witnessed the birth of a new rhythm in one of its alleys, as much Brazilian as international: bossa nova. It is in the swing of the waves forming its legendary boardwalk of Portuguese stones, where Copacabana’s Rolé takes place.
 

1 Praça Cardeal Arcoverde

This access point to the subway, opened in 1998, received the name of the first Cardinal of Brazil and America, Dom Joaquim Arcoverde de Albuquerque Cavalcanti, Archbishop of the city between 1897 and 1930. Despite the name linked to Catholicism, a giant menorah candle with the 7 points of the Judaism decorates the square, demonstrating the multiplicity of faith in Brazil.

2 Bottle´s Bar

For many, it is considered the birthplace of bossa nova, where jazz definitely mixed to samba, creating on an improvised fashion, the most international of the Brazilian rhythms. The “Beco” was composed of four night clubs, side by side: Ma Griffe, Baccarat, Little Club and Bottle’s (itálico). It was on their stages that Elis Regina and other great artists like Jorge Ben, Wilson Simonal, Sérgio Mendes, Edu Lobo, Baden Powell, Alaíde Costa, Luis Carlos Miele and Ronaldo Bôscoli started their careers. It was reopened after being closed for years, marking the resistance of the carioca bohemia.

3 Copacabana Palace

The construction of the glamorous hotel in 1923, is a symbol of a Rio in search of modernization, escaping from a hot and unhealthy old downtown center. Copacabana had a few farms, when the businessman Octávio Guinle built the neo-classical space, inspired on the French Riviera. At a time when the sea bath was taken as medical prescription, this helped introduce to life in Rio the 'culture of the sun'. It went through financial problems, and was finally absorbed by the luxury Orient-Express hotel group.
 

4 Praça Serzedelo Corrêa

It was the final boarding point of the electric trams of Jardim Botânico’s company Ferro Carril, and a connection to other lines that increased the activity in those old sandy areas. It was named after a military, defender of the Republic, who was Minister in the Government of Marshal Floriano.

5 Cine Roxy

It is the last of the street cinemas, one of the hallmarks of Copacabana, which remains as a long tradition, including Rian, one of the nicest, Alaska, Riviera / Cinema II, Alvorada, Americano, Copacabana, Subway Art-Palace, Paris Palace Cinema I and Royal/Holliday.

6 Museu de Imagem e do Som

Still under construction, the Museum displays a digital collection about Carmen Miranda, Radio Nacional and Rio Carnival, among other cultural icons. It will replace Help Club, located there between 1984 and 2010, famous prostitution point in Rio that stimulated a sexual tourism, which was very bad for the city.

7 Copacabana beach (path of Burle Marx) - statue of Carlos Drummond de Andrade

In 1970, the Burle Marx boardwalk project introduced new designs to the famous Portuguese stones, changing the shapes of waves and creating small gardens that totally transformed the beach edge. On the same point of the boardwalk, one of the greatest Brazilian poets who lived and walked in Copacabana many years ago, Carlos Drummond de Andrade, is forever immortalized in “Posto 6”. 

8 Forte de Copacabana

The fort was built on the grounds of Our Lady of Copacabana Church, and opened in 1914. It was designed to prevent approach from the enemy ships threatening the entrance of the Guanabara Bay, and witnessed episodes of History such as the “Movimento Tenentista” of 1922, known as the “18 Insurgents of the Fort”. It currently houses the Army Historical Museum

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Rumor has it

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! Inverted waves

Copacabana was the first place in Rio to adopt the Portuguese stone boardwalks, which became a carioca symbol, despite its Portuguese origin. Still in 1904, the destruction of the Ingá quarry provided the black and white raw material for the pavement of the long boardwalks. Until the 70’s, the waves formed a drawing perpendicular to the sea.
Burle Marx’s redesign gave the boardwalk its current orientation, in which the waves flow parallel to the sea.
 

! 1910’s health recipe

In the early 20th century, sea baths were used as a medical prescription: an early dive between 6:00 and 7:00 AM, and a big bowl of milk were often prescribed. To meet the demands, the stable Mimoso Internacional, where one could drink milk just beside a cow, was owned by Portuguese José Marques, and established at Nossa Senhora de Copacabana Ave. and Santa Clara st.
 

! Poetic Hygiene advice

In 1926, Revista da Semana, the most widely magazine read at the time, decreed that the beach was a place to parties, flirtations and picnics: "Every swimmer should observe these two principles: dress up as little as possible, and spend as much time as possible in the sand meetings"
To attract passengers to Copacabana, Jardim Botânico’s company Ferro Carril printed picturesque advertisement verses in the back of the train tickets:
"Gracious ladies, fancy boys:
Stay out of the streets, and its insane dust.
There are no places for picnics,
As in “Copa-ca-ba-na".
 

! Passion by Clarice

The writer Clarice Lispector settled in Leme, after separating from her husband in 1959, until her death (1977). The rupture influenced Clarice to write the densest and considered to be the highest point of her literature: Paixão Segundo G.H, (The passion according to G.H) putting together philosophy, aesthetic experimentalism and mysticism. Written in first person, the text raises questions about the divine and the immoral, love and sex, which orbit inside of us. The author always deserved to be next to Carlos Drummond de Andrade. She is now represented with a statue in the left corner of Copacabana beach.
 

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Cultural Tips | COPACABANA

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Bip-Bip

Music dominates this bar, which is opened since 1968, in this bucolic Copacabana dead end street. With only a few seats, the presentations of “choro” on Mondays and Tuesdays, ”bossa nova“ on Wednesdays, and “samba” on Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays, are enjoyed by an excited audience who clap only snapping fingers, not to disturb the neighborhood. Sound level is controlled by the owner of the establishment, Alfredo Jacinto Melo, sitting alongside the musicians at a table on the sidewalk. No charge, but the show is always worth a contribution.
Hours: Sun to Fri. from 7:00 PM to 11:45 PM
50-D, Almirante Gonçalves st.
Phone: (21) 2267-9696
Website: https://www.facebook.com/barbipbip/
 

Bar Pavão Azul

Famous bohemian pub for over 50 years, it offers codfish snacks and empanadas, served on the disputed sidewalk tables. Those who are unable to get a table can enjoy its delicious draft beer, immortalized in a chronicle written by the journalist and composer Antonio Maria.

Hours: Mon. to Sun., from 12:00 AM to 12:00 PM.
71, Hilário de Gouveia St. Stores A and B, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro.
Phone: (21) 2236-2381
Website: www.facebook.com/pavaoazul

 

Confeitaria Colombo – Café do Forte

Located at the Copacabana Fort, it has the Colombo tradition, overlooking the sea with full service for breakfast and afternoon tea, including the famous sweets, pastries and waffles. There is a waiting list on Saturdays and Sundays, and it is necessary to pay the access ticket to the Fort. (R$6,00 for adults).

Tues. to Sun., from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM
1, Cel Eugene Franco Sq. “Posto 6”
Phone: (21) 3201-4049
Website: http://www.confeitariacolombo.com.br/

 

Teatro Glaucio Gil

Theater Glaucio Gil is an experimentation nucleus, serving as reference for actors, beginners and traditional companies, such as “Cia dos Atores”.

Mon. to Sun. from 4:00 PM to 8:00 PM
Cardeal Arcoverde Square
Phone: (21) 2332-7904
Website: https://www.facebook.com/teatroglauciogill/
 

Museu de Favela

Founded by residents of Pavãozinho and Cantagalo favelas, this non-governmental community organization (ONG) has collections of records showing the way of life of about 20.000 residents.
Recognized by the Instituto Brasileiro de Museus (Ibram) as a living memory, the space presents the knowledge and practices of local culture, offering the visitor a direct contact with the daily lives of communities, in addition to panoramic views of Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. Emphasis to the open-air art gallery.

Contact for visitation hours.
200, Saint Roman St.
Phone: (21) 2267-6374

Website: http://www.museudefavela.org/
 

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