The neighborhood of Oswaldo Cruz, located in Rio de Janeiro's northern zone, is known for its residential character, typical of Rio's suburbs. Developed around the former Rio das Pedras Railway Station, the area boasts a strong Afro-Brazilian cultural presence and is the birthplace of one of Brazil's most traditional carnival organizations: the centenary Portela samba school, which has made significant contributions to Carnival and Brazilian Popular Music.
The cultural importance of this samba school to the city is even acknowledged through a municipal law, which designates the area around Portela and key addresses in the school's history as a cultural interest zone. This area, known as the Perímetro Cultural de Oswaldo Cruz, was established by Municipal Law No. 6,483/2019.
Inaugurated in 1898, the railway station in the area was named Rio das Pedras, referencing the river that crossed the region. The community surrounding the train stop experienced significant growth due to two major migratory movements between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The first wave consisted of formerly enslaved people from the Vale do Paraíba region following the abolition of slavery, and the second involved groups expelled from downtown Rio de Janeiro after the urban reforms of Mayor Pereira Passos. A large portion of these groups was made up of Black and poor individuals who brought their cultural practices with them, laying the foundation for the strong Afro-Brazilian cultural presence that today is one of the region's hallmarks.
A prominent leader in the region during the early 20th century, Esther Maria Rodrigues hosted large gatherings and community celebrations in her home, where jongueiros and samba musicians would meet and organize to bring their cultural expressions to the streets. These gatherings also attracted influential politicians and entrepreneurs. Located at 95 Antônio Badajós Street, Dona Esther's house was frequented by figures such as Donga, Pixinguinha, Ismael Silva, and Paulo da Portela, among other pivotal artists for samba and Rio de Janeiro's carnival.
One of the main thoroughfares in the Madureira and Oswaldo Cruz region, the road was named after the former Engenho do Portela, one of the large rural estates divided during the formation of the Oswaldo Cruz neighborhood. The Engenho do Portela bordered the lands of Lourenço Madureira, which later gave their name to the neighboring district.
Located at 446 Estrada do Portela, the "Portelinha" was one of the first headquarters of the Portela Samba School. After operating out of the homes of some of its founders and the Bar do Nozinho, a meeting point for samba musicians in the area, Portela finally secured a space specifically designated as its headquarters. Built in the late 1950s, the Portelinha represented the school's first permanent home—a major achievement for the organization. It was a collective effort, made possible by the work and contributions of the community as well as donations from prominent local figures, such as Edgard Romero, a minister of Getúlio Vargas' Court of Auditors.
The Paulo da Portela Square is named in honor of the greatest popular leader in the region's history. Paulo Benjamin de Oliveira was born in 1901 in the Saúde neighborhood. Following the urban reforms of the early 20th century, he lived in various places before settling permanently in the Oswaldo Cruz area, where he participated in several carnival groups that eventually formed the Portela Samba School. In addition to his leadership, he was an inspired composer, creating samba classics that have become part of history.
Founded in 1982, the Afro Bloco Agbara Dudu is celebrated as one of the most representative organizations of the Black movement in the fight against racism in Rio de Janeiro. Its name, derived from Yoruba, loosely translates to "Black Power" or "Black Strength." Among its founders are prominent figures in Rio's Black movement, such as Reginaldo da Portela and Vera Mendes, known as Vera do Agbara. Following the tradition of other Afro blocos like Olodum and Araketu, the bloco's work extends far beyond Carnival, promoting debates, political actions, workshops, and courses.
The street that hosts Portela's current samba hall was renamed Rua Clara Nunes in 1983, in honor of the singer from Minas Gerais who moved to Rio de Janeiro and fell in love with samba and this samba school. She recorded both samba de quadra and samba-enredo pieces for Portela. Her musical journey is defined by her deep connection to this genre and Afro-Brazilian religions.
Inaugurated in 1972, the Portelão is the official headquarters of GRES Portela, where most of its activities take place, including shows, samba circles, samba-enredo selections, and rehearsals. The legendary Natal, a historic leader of Portela and the Oswaldo Cruz and Madureira region, together with President Carlinhos Maracanã, built the school's headquarters on the former site of a bus company. At the time, it was considered an impressive and modern facility.
The Trem do Samba is a traditional event created to celebrate National Samba Day (December 2nd). The first edition took place in 1996, inspired by the journeys made by samba musician Paulo da Portela and his friends, who would gather at Central Station to catch the 6:04 PM train. Along the route, they would rehearse until arriving at Oswaldo Cruz Station. Today, the event brings together samba musicians and fans who recreate the same journey. During the trip, the train cars are transformed into stages for live performances. At the destination, the celebration continues throughout the neighborhood, with shows by renowned artists.
A Cultural and Intangible Heritage of Rio de Janeiro, the Feira das Yabás (from Yoruba, meaning "mothers" or "queens") is an event created in 2008 to celebrate Afro-Carioca culture. It takes place every second Sunday of the month at Praça Paulo da Portela. The fair highlights gastronomy and samba, featuring stalls run by matriarchs of traditional neighborhood families who reinterpret the famous "backyard lunches" that, since the early 20th century, have combined food and samba on Sundays.
Portela is the oldest samba school in continuous operation and the only one to have participated in every carnival parade in the city. It is also the greatest champion, with 21 titles. Its reputation extends internationally: in 1941, Walt Disney visited the school’s samba hall accompanied by his official animator, which has led many to believe that the character Zé Carioca was inspired by the bohemian residents of Oswaldo Cruz, the neighborhood that is the birthplace of the school.
The neighborhood of Oswaldo Cruz is named in honor of the physician and public health pioneer who made significant contributions to Brazilian public health history. Oswaldo Cruz also led the mandatory vaccination campaign against major diseases in the early 20th century, which triggered the Vaccine Revolt (1904) during the urban reforms carried out by Mayor Pereira Passos. These reforms violently displaced the central population, forcing them into Rio's suburban areas, including the neighborhood named after him. Interestingly, while the neighborhood honors his name, there is a notable lack of tributes to local figures who helped shape the area's identity and history.
In the "Rolé Visita" series on the Rolé Carioca YouTube channel, you can watch the video **"Rolé Visita Portela"**, which delves into the history of one of Rio de Janeiro's most beloved samba schools. The video highlights Portela's significant historical role in shaping and developing Rio's Carnival.
The history of the Oswaldo Cruz neighborhood is deeply rooted in Afro-Brazilian culture and the origins of samba. The book *"Breve História do Samba Carioca"* by historian Mauro Sérgio Farias provides an overview of the emergence of samba from the early 20th century to the present day. It is an excellent resource for samba enthusiasts seeking to learn about its origins and evolution, as well as for educators and students working with the theme "Afro-Brazilian History and Culture," as mandated by Law 10.639/2003.
*Rio, Zona Norte* (1957) is a film directed by Nelson Pereira dos Santos that delves into the backstage world of samba in the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro. It portrays the struggles, talent, and determination of characters connected to this musical genre.
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